Now that Maria Grazia Chirui has gotten everyone to pleasurably rock her recognizable “Feminist” tee, it is interesting to see what she has brought to the haute couture show as the first female creative director for the Dior house. She is no stranger to couture as she has worked very closely alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino for over a decade.
The audience was enchanted within moments of walking into the Paris Musee Rodin that was transformed into a whimsical forest of lights and crystals. The setting resonates with the house as Christian Dior himself has often created a natural world set stemmed from his great sensitivity for gardens and flowers.
The opening looks featured strong black pieces although the tone of the show flowed from this androgynous feel to a great emphasis on feminity and charm. The beautiful headpieces sharpened the aesthetic that was both playful and romantic. The Valentino influence can be seen in this collection with a similar horoscope of ball gowns and sheer fabrics. Of course, with time we will more clearly be able to get a sense of the message Chirui would convey to the house but the neutral color palette and full shapes are new beginnings that stood out from her previous designs.
Though the looks were clean and well tailored, the models graced the runway with fairytale demeanor that was almost childlike. The gowns bore a certain delicacy that was both soft and fluid. As a master of modesty and feminity, this collection was very well crafted and breathes something new and exciting for the Dior house.